Skirts are made of various materials, for instance, tweeds for hardwearing country wear, whilst town suits are made in a lighter weight of material - men's suiting being ideal. Quite often these suits are also fur trimmed. If meant to be worn under a coat in winter, a popular material is the less bulky but equally fashionable wool jersey. Jackets have long or three-quarter length, fairly tight sleeves which can be fashionably wrinkled below the elbows. Magyar and Raglan styles are also modish. Squared shoulders, which have begun to appear in the late 1930s, become popular in the 1940s with raised shoulders, reflecting the mood of determination which is thus symbolized. Towards the end of 1940 Molyneux and Paquin, both French dress designers, made their first British collections. Captain Molyneux, an Irishman who opened his own fashion house in Paris after the First World War, designed a new style of jacket dress with the blouse and skirt attached. Paquin, who also designed lingerie, is one of the first designers to use fur as a trimming on suits and coats.